Travel

Echoes of Udayagiri: The Architecture of Memory

Nandini Sahu There are festivals that one celebrates. And there are festivals that one inhabits. For me, Dussehra belonged to the second category.It did not happen at Udayagiri merely as a festival marked on the calendar. It always came as a smell, a sound, a colour, a kitchen full of steam, six girls fighting over mirrors, new clothes folded carefully on a bed, sweets cooling on steel plates, my mother’s impatient voice travelling from the kitchen to every corner of the house, and my father’s measured voice reading aloud the Sudasha Brata Katha. It arrived with the distant beat of the dhol. And, sometimes, with the sudden, terrible cry of a goat. Even now, after all these years, I can hear both. Udayagiri was our universe then. We did not know that one day we would leave it.We did not know that the house which contained our laughter would eventually become an old, dilapidated structure, slowly surrendering itself to dust, rain, moss, and memory. We did not know that the six daughters would scatter across cities and countries, building lives of our own. We did not know that Baba would one day be gone, leaving behind an absence too large for any house to contain. We only knew that Dussehra was coming. And that meant new clothes.For six sisters, new clothes were not simply clothes. They were an annual declaration that life had been generous to us once again. The dresses would arrive wrapped carefully, and the six of us would examine them with the seriousness of cabinet ministers discussing national policy. Someone’s dress would invariably be considered prettier than someone else’s. Someone would complain that her sister had received a better colour. Someone would hold a dress against herself and turn before the mirror. Someone would secretly touch another sister’s fabric and declare that hers was softer.And then, inevitably, there would be negotiations. Six sisters meant six opinions, six temperaments, six versions of justice. We were a small parliament without a constitution. The oldest sisters behaved as though they had inherited administrative powers. The younger ones challenged those powers. There were arguments, alliances, accusations, and temporary treaties. Five minutes later, we would be sitting together, sharing something sweet.That was our childhood. We quarrelled intensely and loved instinctively. We were never alone. Perhaps that is why loneliness, when it came much later in life, felt so unnatural.On Dussehra mornings, the house transformed. Maa began cooking long before the rest of us had fully awakened. She seemed to possess an inexhaustible capacity for work. Her hands moved continuously—washing, cutting, grinding, stirring, frying, arranging. The kitchen became her kingdom, and on festival days, we became her reluctant but willing subjects. She was not a euphonic woman. She was rather cacophonic. I must say this honestly because a memoir is not the place for convenient mythology. Maa could be impatient. Her voice could rise. Her instructions could sound like commands issued during a military emergency. If one of us disappeared when work had to be done, she would find her.But beneath that severity was an extraordinary tenderness. She cooked for us. She cared for us. She worked until exhaustion. And on Dussehra, exhaustion seemed to become another ingredient in the food she prepared. We helped her throughout the day, washing utensils, arranging things, bringing ingredients, cleaning, carrying plates, and attending to the endless small requirements of a household preparing for guests. Sometimes we helped willingly. Sometimes we helped because Maa’s eyes told us that refusal would be a foolish experiment. And sometimes we helped while laughing. That laughter mattered. The kitchen was never entirely silent. Someone was always telling a story, teasing another sister, stealing a sweet, being caught, pretending innocence, and then being exposed by another sister.There were cakes, pitha, and sweets made at home. The word cake itself carried a certain magic for us. Today, cakes can be ordered with a few taps on a phone. In our childhood, a homemade cake was an event. Its arrival from the kitchen seemed almost ceremonial. We waited. We watched. We calculated. Could we take one piece? Could we take another? Would Maa notice? She always noticed.There were sweets, too, plates and plates of them. Festival food had an abundance that seemed almost limitless to a child. The house smelled of sugar, ghee, spices, and fried delicacies. The fragrance travelled beyond the kitchen, through the rooms, through the courtyard, and perhaps even into the street. And relatives came. Friends came. Neighbours came. People entered and left, greeted each other, talked, laughed, ate, blessed us, asked us questions, admired our dresses, and commented on how much we had grown. For a few days, our house became a crossroads. Everyone seemed to know everyone. There was no concept of privacy. There was only family. And family, in those days, was a word much larger than it is today. It included relatives, neighbours, friends, visiting elders, familiar faces from the locality, and the invisible network of affection that held a small town together.In the midst of all this movement sat Baba. He was the still centre of our noisy universe. My father was a high-school teacher. But to me, as a child, he was much more than that. He was our benevolent God. Not the distant God of temples. Not the God who sat beyond clouds and listened to prayers from a great cosmic distance. Our God lived in our house. He read. He taught. He protected. He watched. He had faith in his daughters. Six daughters. No son. In a society where the absence of a son could be treated almost as a family tragedy, Baba never made us feel that we were an incomplete family. We were his children. That was enough.On Dussehra, one of the memories that returns to me most vividly is Baba reading aloud the Sudasha Brata Katha and Durga Stotram. We had to listen. We had to sit straight. We had to understand. We had to accept. Those were the

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Festival

The Eternal Mahanayak: Uttam Kumar

Tapan Dey On September 3, 1926, a boy named Arun Kumar Chatterjee was born in his maternal home. This house was located at 51 Ahiritola Street in North Kolkata. His father, Satkari Chattopadhyay, worked as a film projectionist at Metro Cinema. This job gave the young boy an early window into the magical world of movies. His maternal grandfather lovingly gave him the name Uttam. However, his mother did not particularly like this name and preferred to call him Arun. He grew up in an ordinary middle-class family. He read widely and loved Rabindrasangeet as much as he loved Hollywood cinema. He also cared deeply about sports, food, clothes, conversation, and the vibrant social life of Calcutta.He was a highly active and athletic young man. He swam competitively and became a swimming champion at the Bhowanipur Swimming Association for three consecutive years. He was also a skilled footballer who played in the right-back position. He remained a passionate, lifelong supporter of the Mohun Bagan football club. He even practiced wrestling to build his physical confidence. In 1936, he and his friends founded an amateur theatre group called the Lunar Club. Their very first stage production was Rabindranath Tagore’s famous play Mukut.After completing his graduation, he had to earn a living. He initially worked as a clerk at the Kolkata Court. He later joined the Calcutta Port Trust as a clerk in the cash department. His monthly salary there was exactly 275 rupees. He spent his days surrounded by paperwork while dreaming of a completely different life. He also gave music lessons to earn extra cash for his family. He never let go of his deep passion for acting. He continued exploring his craft through amateur theatre on the side.He finally made his film debut in 1948 with Nitin Bose’s movie Drishtidan. His cinematic journey was incredibly difficult at first. His debut and his next six to nine releases failed miserably at the box office. The film industry cruelly gave him the mocking nickname Flop Master General. He faced constant rejection and almost quit his acting dream. However, the spiritual master of his maternal family, Sripurna Sanyasi, saw his beautiful smile. The master predicted that the entire country would one day recognize him simply by the name Uttam.That beautiful prediction finally started to come true in 1952. He found his first real breakthrough in Nirmal Dey’s film Basu Paribar. This movie also starred Sabitri Chatterjee, Supriya Devi, and Bhanu Banerjee. The very next year, in 1953, a single year changed his entire life. He starred opposite the legendary Suchitra Sen in the beloved comedy Sharey Chuattar. The film became a massive superhit. Audiences instantly fell in love with their magical on-screen pairing. They reached the absolute height of their success together with the 1954 blockbuster Agni Pariksha. Every director wanted to cast them in their movies. They quickly became one of the most successful screen couples in the entire history of Bengali cinema. Uttam deeply respected Suchitra Sen’s immense talent. He gladly agreed to have her name appear before his own on film credits and publicity posters.Uttam Kumar was not just a natural talent who got lucky in life. He manufactured himself into a brilliant actor through pure observation and strict discipline. He carefully studied international stars like Gregory Peck, Gary Cooper, Clark Gable, Laurence Olivier, and Marlon Brando. He did not simply copy their glamour. Instead, he absorbed their psychological truth, their use of silence, and their subtle restraint. He became a highly technical actor with a very high emotional quotient. He knew exactly how to use his hands, his posture, his walk, and his famous smile. He understood the rotational angle of his neck and always presented the perfect profile for the cinematographer. He was an incredibly observant man who adapted to every role completely. He remained wonderfully free of any repetitive signature mannerisms.He acted in around 250 films between 1948 and 1981. His profound influence ushered in the golden age of Bengali cinema. He became the ultimate romantic hero of everyday middle-class Bengali life. He redefined masculinity by being a hero who was flawed, who listened to women, and who was not afraid to cry on screen. However, he refused to be trapped in just romantic roles. He pushed his boundaries constantly to show his remarkable range. He played a romantic lead in massive hits like Harano Sur, Sagarika, Shaap Mochan, Sabaar Uparey, Pathey Holo Deri, and Deya Neya. He made audiences fall completely in love with his character Krishnendu in Saptapadi. He also excelled in great comedies like Bhrantibilash, Mouchak, Ogo Bodhu Shundori, and Dhanyi Meye. In Dhanyi Meye, he played a hilarious football fanatic.He bravely took on morally complex and highly challenging characters. In 1959, he played a serious judge in Prabhat Mukherjee’s Bicharak. He played a despicable villain named Bhavesh Banerjee in Bagh Bondi Khela. He fascinated audiences as the morally ambiguous, sharp-witted cop Tinkori Haldar in Thana Theke Aschhi. He made people cry as Ganada in Jadubansha. He played an emotionally wounded man trapped in a failing marriage in Jatugriha. He portrayed the lonely and vulnerable businessman Ananga Dutta in Nishipadma. He was completely believable as a doctor in Agnishwar. He delivered unforgettable performances in Saheb Bibi Golaam, Chowringhee, Marutirtha Hinglaj, Shesh Anko, Ekhane Pinjar, Nagar Darpane, and Chhadmabeshi.Many Bengali children in the 1980s and 1990s grew up in strict households where parents vetted their movies. Tapan Sinha’s Jhinder Bandi and Satyajit Ray’s Chiriakhana were rare exceptions allowed for children. In Chiriakhana, Uttam brilliantly played the famous detective Byomkesh Bakshi. Many fans truly discovered his genius later in life through VHS tapes of his old films. Watching films like Agnishwar, Bagh Bondi Khela, and Nayak became a beautiful discovery. For some, watching Nayak alongside Ray’s other films like Seemabaddha and Agantuk became an annual cinematic ritual.His most celebrated collaboration was indeed with Satyajit Ray in the 1966 masterpiece Nayak. Ray wrote this film specifically with Uttam Kumar in mind. Ray confessed that he

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Literature

Santiniketan Poems by Kiriti Sengupta  

Monostichs, free verse, and prose poems Keep an Eye   A sneak peek might reveal what seems invisible.  Nourishment   Prana endures —   mortals require sustenance   for survival —   music lingers.   Radiance  Jarul —   a dash of pink makes the green   even more lustrous by the roadside.    Note: The Jarul tree (scientifically known as Lagerstroemia speciosa) is a tropical tree commonly known as the Pride of India or Queen’s Crape-myrtle. The tree is called Jarul (জারুল) in Bengali and Hindi, Tamhan (ताम्हण) in Marathi, where it is the state flower.   Radiance 2  The rain had stopped by then, and evening was approaching as people started heading home. The car switched on its headlights, illuminating the earth’s surface in search of light.  Lal Bundh  Neither the washerman   nor the clothes can tell   whether they will acquire   the scent of the water-lilies.    Note: Lal Bundh is a large pond, maintained by Visva-Bharati and used by local washermen. Numerous water-lilies inhabit the pond.   Paddy Field AI does not help; it is the sunburnt hands that do.   Influence  The moon fosters companionship   across the earth.  Resemblance   Water-lilies are often mistaken for lotuses, but they pair better with rice. The lotuses are revered at His feet.   Beyond Humanity  Working quietly and diligently in the fields,   they prepare the soil for sowing.   Are they aware of their rights?   They are the steers.  Ducks  Paddling in the water —   bathing is no longer   a ritual.   Saints  Unlike humans, ducks preen   and oil their feathers   before entering the water.  Warmth  Mustard plants bloom, easing winter chills.  Monsoon  The sun reveals the true colour   of the clouds that make the stars   fade at night.  The Bauls  Do they sing to themselves? Do they view themselves through music? Ask them, and they will sing once more, bringing a touch of life. The single string of the ektara transcends duality.     Note: The Bauls are the wandering minstrels; their music and poetry are recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.   The Dokra Seller  She has been selling dokra crafts for years. Her display mostly features a variety of decor pieces, mainly idols. Does she realise that every time she sells a Durga deity, she passes on a bit of Shakti?  She certainly has a name, just like everyone else, but no one seems to mind!  Mystery  Nature often hides small paths within the woods.  A Fair Witness  Do trees record human history?I wish they did.    Keeping a Vigil   How can you distinguish an asset from a belonging?   Price alone isn’t enough to decide.  Outward  Shrubs grow densely on the trunk.  They do not extend to the roots.  Inward  A deep fissure in the giant tree  nurtures a future colossal specimen.  Monsoon 2   Water complements           the earth.  Trees prevent           further soil erosion.  Tribal Dance   Artists gather around Shiva,   fostering unity and reverence.   Note: Tribal dance in Santiniketan showcases the Santhal community’s culture, with energetic group movements, traditional red-bordered sarees, and natural beats. The best place to witness these performances live is at Sonajhuri Haat.  Pratichi  The gate opens to the esteemed home   of scholarship. Are random visitors   allowed inside?   At the entrance, a vendor leverages   the reputation for his benefit.  Note: Pratichi (meaning “the western orientation” or “the west”) is the ancestral residence of Nobel laureate economist Amartya Sen in Santiniketan.  The Mark   Dampness indicates   movement on the road.  Cat Fight   It’s difficult to tell whether it’s a real fight or just a play session between two felines. The carpet grass or the rain lilies can attest to the fun they are having.  Camaraderie  Serenity descends as man and nature synchronise in harmony.  In Sonajhuri Forest Honeycomb gains worth. The bees retreat to the hiveas the sun weakens.    By the Kopai River The public bade farewell. Deities left at the riverbank stood idle for life.  The Fisherman  Achieving the goal demands determination. 

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